Pigmentology: Organic, Inorganic, and Hybrid Pigments (Dermatologist Reviewed)
Author: Holistic PMU Research Center, fact-checked and reviewed by an expert panel.
Contributor: Siiri Tabri
We need to dig a bit deeper.
You might think you know pigments as simply "organic," "inorganic," or "hybrid," but there's much more beneath the surface. Dive into this article to uncover the nuances that every artist should know.
“Contrary to popular belief, no true “organic” pigments exist, despite the labels some may carry.”
Background
For this article, we conducted interviews with 34 Powder Brows experts, all of whom have been in the field for over four years. These experts also belong to the industry's exclusive group of top earners. We collated their extensive practical experience to form the critical points for this piece. Following that, we submitted the data to a panel of experts, which included two dermatologists. Their valuable input led us to make numerous additional changes and corrections.
The subject of pigments and pigmentology is one of the most debated and misunderstood areas in the semi-permanent makeup industry. This confusion arises for two primary reasons. First, many artists lack in-depth knowledge about the chemical properties of pigments. Second, the choices and consistency of pigments are largely influenced by major producers who financially incentivize artists to promote their products. These producers often claim that either organic, inorganic, or hybrid pigments are "the best." However, Holistic PMU operates independently of any significant pigment producers, allowing us to present objective and fact-based information.
Understanding pigments
Restrictions and quality standards
Pigments available in the market for cosmetic purposes like tattooing and permanent makeup must adhere to stringent quality controls. These pigments should be produced under strict laboratory conditions to ensure their safety, consistency, and effectiveness. A part of that is that each pigment should be accompanied by a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), which provides detailed information about the product's composition, potential hazards, and safety measures.
Components Quality Control
Additionally, the colorants used in these pigments should undergo dermatological testing to ensure that they are safe for skin contact. They should also possess the necessary certifications to verify their safety. An essential requirement is that these colorants should be devoid of toxic and carcinogenic substances, ensuring that they do not pose a long-term risk to the user's health. Pigment ingredients must also comply with the European Council's ResAP Directive for those operating within the European Union. This directive specifies which substances are approved for cosmetic use and for use in tattooing and permanent makeup dyes. This assures a uniform standard of safety and quality across EU countries.
A very large selection
The market is saturated with many pigments, varying in composition, color, and consistency. For instance, some pigments may be water-based, while others might be oil-based, affecting their retention and look on the skin. With such a diverse range of options, it becomes critical for professionals to understand the products they're working with thoroughly. This knowledge is essential for achieving the desired immediate effects and ensuring that the appearance remains consistent and appealing over a longer period, even after the skin has fully healed.
Practical Truth - "Don't Trust the Label; Trust Your Experience"
Seasoned artists often say, "Don't trust the label; trust your experience." This means you should test pigments yourself to see how they heal in the skin. Use only high-quality pigments for this. The testing period should last between 6 to 12 months. You can make more reliable choices by observing how different pigments heal in various skin types. Trust your experience, not just the label.
The components of Pigments
First, we must understand that there are many ways to categorize pigments. To understand this, we have to understand what “pigments” are. Under the term “pigment” in the context of PMU (and SPMU), we mean a mixture that consists of the following components:
Colorants
These substances are responsible for giving the pigment its actual color. The colorants used in PMU and SPMU can be either organic or inorganic. Organic colorants are usually carbon-based and can offer a broader range of bright and vivid colors. In contrast, inorganic colorants are typically metal oxides and offer more muted natural shades. Both types must be dermatologically tested and approved for skin contact.
As we have discussed, the carrier part of the pigment consists of the components that perform the following roles.
Solvents
These are liquid substances that hold and disperse the colorants. Common solvents include water, alcohol, and glycerine. However, it's worth noting that they often function more as dispersants than as traditional solvents. Their primary function is to facilitate an even application of the pigment onto the skin and can also act as a preservative.
Binders
These substances help the pigment adhere to the surface where it's applied. Binders in pigments commonly include glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and natural resins like rosin and shellac, as well as block copolymers such as acrylates.
Fillers and other additives
These include preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters. These additional substances serve various roles, from preserving the pigment to altering its consistency or pH level.
It's also worth mentioning that one substance can serve multiple functions. For example, glycerine can act both as a solvent and a binder, depending on its concentration and the specific formulation of the pigment.
Thus, we can conclude that the categorization of pigments into “organic,” “inorganic,” or “hybrid” is done by the colorant type, which is just one component of the mixture.
Understanding CI (Color Index)
The Color Index (CI) is a widely recognized system used for identifying pigments and dyes in various industries, including textiles, paints, and cosmetics. In the field of Permanent Makeup (PMU) and Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU), the CI provides valuable information on the chemical composition, quality, and safety of the pigments being used.
The CI typically consists of a prefix followed by a five-digit number. The prefix indicates the general chemical composition of the pigment. For example, "CI 77" denotes inorganic pigments, while "CI 19" points to organic pigments.
Organic pigment numbers range from 10000 to 76999
Organic pigments usually have CI numbers in the range of 10000 to 76999. These are carbon-based compounds and are known for their bright and vivid colors. Organic pigments are often synthesized from petrochemicals and are generally considered to be less stable than their inorganic counterparts when exposed to environmental factors like light and heat. However, they are valued for their intensity and range of color.
Inorganic pigment numbers range from 77000 to 77999
Inorganic pigments typically have CI numbers in the 77000 to 77999 range. These are usually metal oxides and are generally considered to be more stable, especially when exposed to environmental elements. Inorganic pigments offer more muted, natural colors compared to organic ones. Standard inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
Colorants categorized by substance
In Permanent Makeup (PMU), the colorants used can be categorized into three primary types based on their substance: Pigments, Lacs, and Dyes. Each type has its own characteristics, advantages, and disadvantages, and understanding these can help you make an informed choice for your PMU procedures.
Colorant: Pigment
Pigmetns - Colorant: “Pigment”. Pigments are characterized by their insolubility in water and other solvents. They have a larger particle size than dyes, making them more stable when exposed to light, heat, and other environmental factors. This stability and larger particle size result in better color retention in the skin. Pigments are usually non-reactive and less likely to cause allergic reactions. However, they often offer a limited range of bright and vibrant colors. Within the category of pigments, there are organic pigments (generally synthetic and carbon-based, offering a wide range of bright colors) and inorganic pigments (typically metal oxides like titanium dioxide and iron oxides, more stable, but offer a range of more muted colors).
Colorant: Lac
Pigments - Colorant: “Lac”. Lacs are another form of colorant often used in PMU. They are typically produced by depositing color onto a substrate, creating a 'lake' of color. Lacs can be either soluble or insoluble, depending on their treatment. They offer great color consistency and stability and are often employed to create colors that are challenging to produce using pigments or dyes alone. However, it's worth noting that some lacs may contain heavy metals, which might not be suitable for all skin types.
Colorant: Dye
Pigments - Colorant: “Dye”. Dyes are the third primary type of colorant. Unlike pigments, they are soluble in water and other solvents, boasting a smaller particle size. This solubility and smaller size allow for brighter, more vivid colors. However, this also means they are more likely to fade over time and present a greater risk of allergic reactions and skin sensitivity. Dyes are divided into various categories, such as acid dyes, which are mainly used for protein fibers; basic or cationic dyes, used for acrylic fibers; and direct dyes, mainly used for cellulose-based fibers like cotton.
Colorants are categorized according to solubility.
Essentially, colorants can be categorized into two main types based on their solubility: hydrophilic and hydrophobic.
Hydrophilic colorants
Hydrophilic colorants are soluble in water, making them easy to mix and apply when you're using water-based solutions. However, they are not soluble in fats, which can affect how they interact with different skin types and conditions. Most hydrophilic colorants are organic in nature and are relatively rare. Brands like iColor and Permablend offer these types of pigments, which are known for their vibrant colors but may require special attention for clients with oily or thicker skin.
Hydrophobic colorants
On the other hand, hydrophobic colorants are not soluble in water, which may complicate the mixing process. However, they are soluble in fats, offering different interactions and retention levels in various skin types. These colorants are usually found in inorganic pigments and are often formulated based on glycine, making them denser and potentially easier to control during application. Brands such as Doreme and Quantum are known for offering hydrophobic, inorganic pigments that tend to be more versatile, especially for clients with complex skin conditions or those aiming for a more natural look.
Colorant Categorization according to origin
The categorization of colorants based on their origin is a topic where starting trainers and many artists make the most mistakes; let us unpack this next.
Organic Colorants - Contain Carbon in their structure
These don't contain heavy metals and are considered to be safer for the skin. There are two types of organic colorants: natural and synthetic. Natural organic colorants are derived from plants or animals. Think of henna, for example, which comes from a plant and is used for temporary tattoos. On the other hand, synthetic organic colorants are man-made using chemical processes. These are typically bright and vibrant in color. It's worth noting that the term 'organic' in this context doesn't mean 'natural'; it refers to carbon-based molecules, whether natural or synthetic.
Inorganic Colorants - Do not contain Carbon in their structure.
Inorganic colorants don't have carbon in their structure. Instead, they contain mineral compounds like oxides, sulfides, and chromates. These types of colorants are generally more stable, meaning they last longer and fade less over time. However, they come in more muted colors compared to their organic counterparts. Some inorganic colorants, like iron oxides found in the earth, can be natural, while others can be synthesized in a lab. Because they can contain metals, it's essential to know their composition, especially if used on sensitive skin or in regulated industries like cosmetics.
Synthetic Colorants - Soluble dyes that are chemically formulated
This term usually refers to soluble dyes that are chemically formulated. Although the term 'synthetic' might be confused with 'man-made,' it's essential to understand that in this context, synthetic usually refers to a specific type of organic dye that's water-soluble. These dyes can offer a wide array of bright, eye-catching colors. However, they may not be as stable or long-lasting as inorganic or insoluble organic colorants because they are soluble.
Understanding Organic pigments
Brighter colors, smaller particles
Organic pigments are known for their vibrant, saturated, and luminous colors, which can be both an advantage and a challenge in PMU. These pigments have smaller particle sizes compared to inorganic pigments, which allows for the creation of intensely rich hues. However, the smaller size also carries risks like pigment migration, which can make it harder to control the distribution in the skin.
Sensitivity to UV light, harder to implant correctly
Another characteristic of organic pigments is their sensitivity to UV radiation and a higher likelihood of causing skin sensitization. For this reason, they are often recommended for use by more experienced professionals who can handle their specific challenges. These pigments require a different approach than inorganic pigments. For instance, they shouldn't be densely packed into the skin; a lighter technique should be employed, with powdered movements and shorter strokes.
Great retention, difficult to correct mistakes
Organic pigments have molecular solid bonds that offer very good retention. This translates to longer-lasting results that don't differ much in appearance between the immediate aftermath of the treatment and the healed outcome. However, this permanency means that any mistakes—like overly defined contours or uneven pixelation—could be difficult to correct later.
Experience is required to achieve professional results
Working with organic pigments demands a detailed understanding of skin types. They are often recommended for oily and thick skins but must be applied delicately. Overbuilding the shape or saturating the color is discouraged, as these pigments are less forgiving of errors.
While organic pigments offer the benefit of reduced long-term maintenance due to their staying power, this also places more responsibility on both the client and the artist to get it right the first time. Generally, it's best to adopt a conservative approach, particularly regarding saturation. Techniques like layering and diluting the pigment with a shading solution can help control the color build-up without overwhelming the skin.
New artists should be especially mindful of the technical aspects of organic pigments, such as the needle angle, depth, hand speed, and pressure. Consistency in these elements is critical to prevent issues like "blowouts," where the pigment spreads beneath the skin, resulting in an ashy or dark appearance that could be permanent.
Organic pigments in PMU offer a range of benefits and challenges that necessitate a comprehensive understanding and skilled application for the best results.
Understanding Inorganic pigments
More stable to UV light, safer option for many skin types
Inorganic pigments are renowned for their durability, stability, and UV resistance. Unlike their organic counterparts, these pigments possess larger particle sizes, reducing the skin's likelihood of pigment migration. Their inherent properties make them less prone to sensitization, making them a safer option for a broader range of skin types.
Less brightness, more matte in colors
The colors offered by inorganic pigments are often subdued, matte, and less saturated than organic pigments' vibrant hues. They are particularly useful for clients seeking a more natural, understated effect, and their colors tend to be more earthy. These pigments are versatile and suitable for normal, combination, dry, and mature skin types.
Larger particle size, more challenging to implant
However, inorganic pigments do have their challenges. Because of their larger particle sizes, they are harder to implant into the skin, often requiring more passes and heavier hand pressure. It usually takes a more layered approach to get the pigment to set effectively and last longer. This layering technique can be advantageous, especially for newer artists or those looking to correct or adjust the PMU later. After healing, inorganic pigments can sometimes manifest cool tones, but these often give way to warmer, brown hues over time.
More touch-ups are needed, and a larger needle should be used.
Since inorganic pigments are less permanent and fade more readily, they offer clients a lower level of commitment but at the cost of requiring more frequent touch-ups. This also allows for greater flexibility in adjusting the shape and color of PMU features, like brows, as the client ages or as beauty trends evolve. Regarding professional tips, using a larger needle configuration such as 3RL/RS, 5RS, or even a 7CM can facilitate quicker and more effective pigment saturation, mainly when working on clients with thicker skin. This can be beneficial given that inorganic pigments are generally more difficult to implant into the skin.
Overall, inorganic pigments provide a different set of advantages and limitations compared to organic pigments. Their unique characteristics make them ideal for specific client needs and preferences while also being more forgiving for artists who are still honing their techniques.
Understanding Hybrid pigments
Hybrid pigments have emerged as a versatile option that offers some advantages of both organic and inorganic worlds. These are mixed formulations where manufacturers combine organic and inorganic pigment particles to achieve optimized characteristics such as color brightness, opacity, and longevity.
Hybrid pigments are currently the most prevalent type of pigment on the market, and their balanced characteristics make them a versatile choice in PMU. By understanding their makeup and how they perform, you can tailor your approach for each client, ensuring optimal results and long-lasting satisfaction.
Types of Hybrid Pigments
Contrary to a one-size-fits-all approach, hybrid pigments come in various formulations. They can be categorized as:
Organic-Based Hybrid Pigments
These pigments contain a higher proportion of organic pigment particles. As a result, they offer benefits similar to purely organic pigments, such as vibrant color and better saturation.
Inorganic-Based Hybrid Pigments
These pigments are skewed towards a higher concentration of inorganic pigment particles. Brands like FADE Eyebrow Pigments fall into this category. They tend to offer the flexibility and subtlety that are characteristic of inorganic pigments.
Benefits of Using Hybrid Pigments
Optimized Color Brightness. Some hybrid pigments can provide a color that is as vibrant as organic pigments but with better stability over time.
Enhanced Opacity
These pigments offer robust coverage of inorganic pigments, making them suitable for various skin types and conditions.
Longevity
By blending both types, hybrid pigments tend to offer a balanced longevity, falling somewhere between the long-lasting nature of organic pigments and the more ephemeral nature of inorganic pigments.
Considerations regarding skin
Skin Types. Since hybrid pigments are versatile, they can be adapted to suit various skin types, ranging from oily to mature and thin skin.
Flexibility and Style. These pigments can offer a middle ground for clients looking for longevity and the option to modify the shape or color over time.
Saturation Levels. Hybrid pigments generally provide a balanced saturation level, making them a reliable choice for new and experienced artists.
Additional observations on what to consider regarding Hybrid pigments
Hybrid pigments offer a balance between the strengths of organic and inorganic pigments, but they also have some drawbacks. Here's a list of commonly cited negatives.
Higher Price Point
Due to their complex formulations, hybrid pigments can be more expensive than their organic or inorganic counterparts. However, most seasoned trainers participating in the study agreed that one should not try to optimize the cost of pigments.
Complexity in Application
Skill Requirement. Utilizing hybrid pigments effectively may require a deeper understanding of both organic and inorganic pigment behavior, which could be challenging for beginners.
Uncertainty in Results
Unpredictable Fading. Since hybrid pigments contain elements of both organic and inorganic pigments, the rate at which they fade can be less predictable. As we discussed before, often, the only way is to try them yourself and evaluate the healing.
Risk of inconsistency in Color
The mix might yield inconsistent results, particularly if the ratio of organic to inorganic pigments varies between brands or batches.
Limitations in Customization
While they offer a balanced set of characteristics, hybrid pigments may not fully cater to clients with specific needs that could be better met by either a fully organic or inorganic option.
Practical suggestions for choosing pigments
Choosing the right pigment for each client is crucial in permanent makeup (PMU). The outcome significantly depends on whether you opt for organic or inorganic pigments, and your choice needs to be tailored to individual client needs and skin types. Here is a more structured discussion based on your extensive observations and tips.
When to Use Organic Pigments
Skin Type
Organic pigments are usually better suited for clients with oily or thick skin.
Longevity
These pigments are very durable and can retain for 2-3 years before a touch-up is needed.
Saturation
Organic pigments generally provide a high saturation level and may not even require a touch-up after the initial treatment of Powder Brows.
Color Retention
Organic pigments tend to look cooler over time due to the presence of Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide White. A warm color boost can revive the warmth of the brows.
Color Match
Organic pigments should be used again for touch-ups to maintain staying power and coverage.
When to Use Inorganic Pigments
Skin Type
Inorganic pigments work well for mature, thin skin and are also suitable for fair-skinned clients with dark hair or those with visible sun damage.
Flexibility
Inorganic pigments are especially beneficial for newer artists and clients not want to commit to a lifelong shape or color.
Trendy Styles
They are great for younger clients seeking a bold, highly saturated brow but who may want to alter it as they age.
Saturation
These pigments require more layers and treatments to reach optimal saturation.
Touch-ups
Due to their less permanent nature, plan for annual touch-ups with clients, ideally between 12-24 months.
Color Match
These pigments offer more flexibility. Clients may continue with inorganic pigments or switch to organic for more longevity.
Suggestions regarding aftercare
Organic pigments often leave a residual undertone of cool or ash, attributed to Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide White. Inorganic pigments, on the other hand, can leave behind a residual undertone of either red/orange or cool/ash as Iron Oxide Black breaks down.
During the consultation, always inform your client that their brows will need maintenance for optimal beauty. Book this appointment before they leave and offer incentives if needed to secure it.
Azo pigments
While the pigments available on the market are generally considered safe for use in the body, challenges can arise during the laser removal process. Specifically, the issue occurs when pigment particles become destabilized due to the heat generated by laser light. This is a complex process that can potentially lead to unintended chemical reactions.
For instance, azo pigments, which are commonly used for their bright and stable colors, can be particularly challenging to remove using laser techniques. When heated by laser light, azo pigments have the potential to release harmful substances like aromatic amines, which are considered carcinogenic. This means that they can increase the risk of cancer when released into the body. Therefore, it's crucial for both the practitioner and the client to be aware of these risks, especially if laser removal of azo pigments is being considered.
While most pigments used in procedures like Powder Brows are approved for safety, it's essential to exercise caution when considering laser removal techniques, especially for certain types of pigments like azo-based ones. Understanding the chemical composition of pigments and the possible risks associated with laser removal can significantly improve the quality and safety of your services.
No pigments are really “organic”
Additional note about no “organic pigment” being actually “organic.”
The term "organic" is often used in the field of Permanent Makeup (PMU) to describe certain types of pigments. However, it's essential to note that no truly 100% organic pigments are used in PMU. This is due to the need for stability, which pure organic pigments would lack.
Let's delve into some of the technical aspects to clarify this point. A commonly used pigment called "organic black," with a color index CI 77266, is not purely organic. This pigment is produced through three primary methods: Channel Black, Furnace Black, and Thermal Black. Each of these production methods results in a pigment that contains both organic and inorganic components, albeit in varying ratios.
For example, Channel Black has a ratio of 19% organic to 81% inorganic components. Furnace Black has a more balanced ratio of 55% organic to 45% inorganic components. Lastly, Thermal Black comes closest to being purely inorganic, with a 99/1 ratio of inorganic to organic materials.
Including inorganic elements in these pigments provides the stability needed for PMU procedures. Purely organic carbon-based pigments would be unstable and unsuitable for permanent makeup applications. This is a crucial consideration both for PMU artists and clients alike. Understanding the actual composition of the so-called "organic" and "inorganic" pigments can provide valuable insights into their long-term behavior, including color retention and safety during procedures like laser removal.
So, while the industry may label certain pigments as "organic," it's essential to recognize that these are not wholly organic in the truest sense of the word.
Conclusions
When it comes to categorizing pigments, it's crucial to recognize the varying ways the term "pigment" is used depending on the context. In the world of Permanent Makeup (PMU), a pigment in its end product form inside a bottle comprises multiple components. These include colorants like pigments, lacs, and dyes, carriers like water, glycerin, and alcohol, and additives like stabilizers, thickeners, or preservatives. Sometimes, pH adjusters are also used to maintain the level of acidity or alkalinity.
Let's break down the types of colorants further. Pigments are characterized as insoluble, large particle-sized, UV stable, and providing matte colors. Conversely, lacs can be either soluble or insoluble and offer excellent color consistency, though they may contain heavy metals. Dyes are soluble, have smaller particles, and produce bright colors.
Colorants are often categorized based on their origin. Organic colorants contain carbon, whereas inorganic ones do not. Synthetic colorants are chemically formulated soluble dyes.
Each type of colorant comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Organic pigments, which contain carbon, offer brighter colors and have smaller particle sizes. They are sensitive to UV light and likely sink deeper into the skin, providing excellent retention. However, mistakes made with organic pigments can be challenging to correct. They are better suited for thick, oily skin.
In contrast, inorganic pigments have larger particles and produce more matte colors. They are also more stable when exposed to UV light. These pigments require a larger needle for implantation, and multiple touch-ups might be needed, making them better suited for individuals with normal skin types.
Hybrid pigments combine the best of both worlds, integrating the properties of both organic and inorganic pigments. In fact, most of the pigments available in the market today are hybrids.
Understanding these categorizations and characteristics allows you to make more informed choices in your practice. Here at Holistic PMU, we aim to equip you with knowledge that is not only comprehensive but also objectively verified.