How to Enhance Powder Brows Beginnings with the Hairstroke Technique?
Author: Holistic PMU Research Center, fact-checked and reviewed by an expert panel.
Contributor: Siiri Tabri
Dare to combine styles…
Exceptional artists understand the value of blending different techniques and styles. Specifically, adding hairstrokes, especially in the "head" section, can often enhance Powder Brows. Moreover, you don't need an extensive course on "hairstrokes" or "combo brows" to incorporate this into your practice.
“Any brow that involves the use of two or more techniques or styles is, in essence, a ‘combo brow,’ regardless of the specific choices made.”
Background
This article gathered insights from a panel of 23 world-class PMU and microblading artists. These experts participated in online questionnaires and live chat interviews. The research for this piece was conducted in 2021 and early 2023. Each artist on the panel has over four years of extensive experience in the field. Moreover, they have honed their skills in all the technical aspects of the styles and techniques discussed here, also for a minimum of four years. While most of these artists are based in European Union countries and the UK, six are also from the US and Latin America.
Mixed techniques and styles
The Idea of Mixing Techniques
Many beginner artists create stark boundaries between different techniques and styles. This often leads to a reluctance to learn new methods. Even experienced artists, as revealed in other research projects, have admitted that new techniques initially seemed "too difficult to grasp" or "complicated at first sight." This mindset is not ideal. It can lead artists to avoid using techniques they don't yet understand, often rationalizing that such methods aren't "suitable" for a specific client.
Understanding Styles and Techniques
In the realm of PMU (Permanent Makeup) and SPMU (Semi-Permanent Makeup, to be more precise), there are fundamentally two cornerstone techniques that form the basis for all other styles and sub-techniques: Powder Brows and microblading. The uniqueness of microblading is such that it can't easily fit as a subcategory under any other technique. Essentially, anything you can achieve with a PMU machine can be seen as a variation of Powder Brows.
This principle also applies to the "Hairstroke" and "Ombré" styles. Both are variations of the Powder Brow technique and can be considered sub-categories. For instance, PMU Hub, the world's largest source of free PMU-related information, states: "Ombré powder brows are a subcategory of powder brows and are essentially a specific shading pattern."
Don't Fear "Combo Brows"
Building on the previous points, another intriguing conclusion can be drawn. Any brows incorporating multiple techniques or styles can be termed "Combo Brows." It's crucial to realize that Combo Brows isn't something that needs to be learned as a separate entity. It simply combines two or more techniques or styles you've mastered. For instance, blending microblading with Powder Brows yields "Combo Brows," just like mixing the "Hairstroke Technique" with "Powder Brows" does. However, it's important to note that there are various nuances in properly combining different techniques and styles. We've observed that students who've taken multiple classes often lack a holistic view. As a result, they sometimes combine styles or techniques in a less-than-optimal manner.
Adding Hairstrokes to Powder Brows
Combining Powdering and Hairstrokes
In the sections to come, we'll delve into when it's advisable to add hairstrokes to Powder Brows to improve their visual appeal and make them look more natural. According to many experienced artists, this is often one of the most effective and simplest ways to boost the quality of your Powder Brows. An interesting point to note is that as soon as you add even a single hairstroke to Powder Brows, you can categorize them as "Combo Brows." To be even more precise, following PMU categorization logic, you could refer to them as "Combined Powder Brows," "Combo Powder Brows," or "Powder Brows and Hairstroke Combo Brows." This is all a matter of terminology; the brows themselves remain the same.
When to Add Hairstrokes to Powder Brows?
Not all Powder browsers require the addition of hairstrokes. This becomes particularly relevant when the brow area has little or no hair or if a section of the brow is "missing." The latter situation often pertains to the heads of the brows, which can usually benefit from a combination of hairstrokes and powdering. This is especially true when other parts of the brows—like the middle and tail—grow thicker, practically normal hair.
Common Issues with the Head Section of the Brow
Just Powdering May Not Be Enough
In some instances, simply using the powdering and shaded ombré effect on the head section of the brow doesn't produce a seamless look when healed. Less experienced artists often underestimate this aspect, leading to a brow that starts abruptly where the hair begins to grow. This issue is exacerbated by the fact that the skin in the brow's head section is often thicker—sometimes significantly so—than the skin at the brow's tail or the lower arch near the eyes. This makes pigment application to this section more challenging, further accentuating the difference between the brow's head and its other parts.
Damaging Results of Overplucking Lead to False Perception
When a client has habitually plucked their brow hair, there's a slim chance that the hair will regrow. If the rest of the brow has thicker hair, merely powdering the head section is usually not optimal. This can result in a stark contrast between the brow's head and the rest of it once healed. This issue can often be traced back to the client's perception, especially if they've been used to the look for years or even decades. Studies have shown that many women aren't even aware of the aesthetic problem created by the thinning or absence of hair at the beginnings of their eyebrows, especially if they've conditioned themselves to this look over a long period.
The Correct Starting Line May Initially Be Rejected
Correctly mapping the brows in such situations can lead to clients initially rejecting the proper starting line. Despite this, experienced artists remain steadfast. They often explain the benefits and convince the client that the suggested starting line is the better aesthetic choice. The agreement among artists on our expert panel on this point was striking. Nearly all reported experiences where they stood by the "correct starting line," even when clients were initially hesitant. These clients later realized they had made an excellent choice, often based on the positive feedback they received from others after the procedure.
Naturally "Missing Heads"
There are instances where the client has not overplucked, but the natural starting point for brow hair growth in the head section isn't ideal. This observation has been made by many seasoned artists, who sometimes express surprise that achieving a better end result might require choosing an "unnatural" starting line. The reality is that when the goal is aesthetic perfection, natural hair growth may need a little enhancement.
A Tiny Difference Can Have a Huge Impact
Realizing that even natural hair growth can be asymmetrical or less than ideal is essential in cases like these. Making even a minor adjustment can significantly change the overall aesthetic look of the face. Therefore, artist should stand their ground. Suppose you truly see yourself as a professional in the field. In that case, you should advocate for the best result for your client, even if their initial opinions could be considered "self-harmful" or "self-destructive."
Practical Guide to Determining the Starting Line
Establish the Starting Line Accurately
There are multiple ways to identify the ideal starting lines for brows based on the center of the face. Although the professional artists we interviewed used various methods, one guiding principle was consistent. If vertical lines are drawn upward from the innermost edge of the lacrimal caruncle, the distance between the beginnings of the brows should be shorter. In simpler terms, if you measure the gap between the small pinkish triangles inside the eyes and transfer that measurement to the brow level, it should be reduced for a more aesthetically pleasing distance between the brows.
Determining the Right Amount of Shortening
As for how much to shorten that distance, there are varied approaches. According to the well-known golden ratio measurement method, the distance should be shortened by as much as 31.8%, which is quite substantial. Many seasoned artists agree with this and often apply this principle. Although this may seem like a significant adjustment, especially when some fashion magazines suggest matching distances between tear ducts and brows, the final decision should always be individualized. Starting with the golden ratio as a baseline is often a smart approach.
Practical Guide to Creating Hairstrokes
Select Organic Pigment
Many experienced artists recommend using organic pigment for hairstrokes to minimize the risk of blurring and achieve better results. It's particularly crucial for those with less experience to opt for mineral pigments. Some artists use organic pigment for hairstrokes even if the rest of the brow is done with inorganic or hybrid pigment. The consensus is that if you're considering anything other than mineral pigment, especially hybrid ones, it's essential to test them on regular skin first to observe the healing stages. In other words, don't rely solely on what the label says; mineral pigment is often the safer choice.
Choose the Right Needle Size
Beginner artists often assume that ultra-thin needles like 0.18 or 0.20 are ideal for creating hairstrokes. However, real-world experience suggests otherwise. Many seasoned artists prefer a 1RL needle with a thickness of 0.25. This size is thin enough to produce clean lines but not so thin that the lines fade away during the healing process or the lifespan of the combined brows.
Do Hairstrokes Before Powdering
Creating hairstrokes before applying powdering to that section of the brow is crucial. While some artists suggest doing it afterward, this approach often carries greater risks and may result in suboptimal healing. Once you've mapped out the brow outlines, focus on adding the lines to the brow heads before moving on to powdering.
Avoid Overcrowding the Pattern
A common mistake among beginners is making the pattern too tight when drawing hairstrokes. This can cause the lines to heal blurry and undefined. Seasoned artists unanimously advise adding any extra lines during the retouch session 6-8 weeks after the initial procedure. This allows time to see how the pigment settles in the skin.
No Need for a Mirror Image
While some trainers advocate for patterns that mirror each other exactly, experienced artists generally don't follow this rule. Many mentioned that they used to do it earlier in their careers but have since shifted their approach. They now focus on understanding the natural differences in hair growth between the two brows. The saying goes, "Brows are like fingerprints"—each pair is unique to the individual, and even between a pair, small differences exist. This holds true not just for hair growth patterns but also for characteristics like orientation and ridge count. Therefore, aim for similar patterns with slight variations to achieve the most natural results.
Consider the Extra Intensity from Powdering
A common oversight, even among seasoned artists, is not accounting for the additional intensity of powdering over hairstrokes. Applying powder on top of the hairstrokes adds extra pigment to the strokes, making them darker and more intense than initially intended. The recommended approach is to start with hairstrokes that are one shade lighter than your final target. After applying a light layer of powder, you can assess whether the strokes need further darkening. Often, they don't require any more intensity, and starting with the "correct" shade from the beginning would result in strokes that are too dark and could even spread.
Conclusions
When crafting Powder Brows, an artist shouldn't view "Hairstrokes" or "Combo Brows" as complex techniques that require extensive learning before use. In reality, brows can often be enhanced simply by adding a few lines, particularly to the head of the brow. This effectively creates "Hairstrokes," turning the brows into "Combo Brows." The terminology isn't crucial; what's important is the artist's flexibility to add lines to the brow when necessary.
The most frequent scenario is where the hair at the beginning of the brow is either overplucked or naturally sparse. If hair growth in other parts of the brow is normal or above average, hairstrokes can be an effective solution.
Determining the right starting lines for brows can be approached in various ways, but the artist's evaluation often guides the final decision. As a rule of thumb, the distance between the starting lines should be shorter than the distance between the inner corners of the tear channels. If you're using the "golden ratio" method, the distance should be 38.2% shorter.
For creating hairstrokes, it's advisable to use mineral (organic) pigments and opt for a needle that's not too thin—most professionals recommend a 1RL 0.25 thickness. Avoid making the lines too close together, as this can cause the pigment to spread. It's better to add extra lines during the retouch phase. Also, don't aim for a perfect "mirror image" in the pattern; small, deliberate differences often result in a more natural look.
Lastly, hairstrokes should be created before powdering and initially made one shade lighter than intended. This accounts for the additional intensity that powdering can bring to the strokes.