How to Successfully Perform Powder Brows on Mature Skin? (Expert Adivce)
Author: Holistic PMU Research Center, fact-checked and reviewed by an expert panel.
Contributor: Siiri Tabri
Pay Attention and Prepare!
Working with mature skin requires special considerations, from preparing for the procedure to drawing the brow shape and aftercare. Here are some expert tips to guide you through the process.
“For artists new to the field, it’s crucial to aim for a natural look when dealing with older clients with mature skin. The mistake of creating brows that are too thick or too dark is one you’ll want to avoid at all costs.”
Study Results
To create this article, we interviewed 52 experienced PMU artists, each with at least three years of experience in performing the Powder Brows procedure. During one part of the interview, we specifically focused on clients over the age of 50. We aimed to gather and organize practical insights on executing the Powder Brows technique on older clients. Most artists we talked to were from European Union countries, but many were from the US and the UK. We found that best practices for Powder Brows on mature skin didn't differ much based on the artist's geographic location. Instead, the variations we observed were more related to the specific skin types of individual clients. Interestingly, these variations were consistent and had little to do with where the artist was based.
Understanding Skin Aging
To master the Powder Brows technique on mature skin, particularly for women aged 50 and above, it's essential to understand the unique characteristics of aging skin. Let's delve into some of the changes women in this age group often experience.
Hormonal Changes and Menopause
Starting in their 50s, many women undergo menopause, resulting in significant hormonal shifts. Lower estrogen levels contribute to reduced oil production, making the skin drier and less supple. Additionally, collagen production decreases, which is also due to lower estrogen. This leads to skin losing its strength and elasticity, making it more susceptible to wrinkles.
Vascular Changes
Another critical factor to consider in the Powder Brows procedure is the increased vascularity in aging skin. Typically, around the ages of 50-55, the skin becomes more "vascular." This means blood vessels are more fragile, leading to easier bruising. The skin also thins out and becomes more transparent, causing veins to be more visible.
Decreased Thickness and Elasticity
The skin starts to thin due to less production of vital proteins like collagen and elastin. This affects the skin's firmness and makes pigmentation more challenging to achieve. As women reach their 60s, their skin loses even more youthful firmness.
Wrinkles and Fine Lines
Thinner skin also highlights wrinkles and fine lines. Decreased hydration and water retention are partly due to a reduction in the skin's natural hyaluronic acid levels. This results in drier skin and a greater likelihood of irritation.
Age Spots and Decreased Healing Capacity
Over time, hyperpigmentation and age spots become more prevalent due to accumulated sun exposure. While these aren't direct obstacles for the Powder Brows procedure, it's crucial to note that the skin's healing capacity diminishes with age. This impacts how well the skin can recover from PMU procedures. In older clients, the skin may also be more sensitive to products used in Powder Brows, such as dyes, pigments, and anesthetics.
Pigments for Mature Skin
Choose Mineral Pigments Over Hybrid
Most artists recommend using inorganic (mineral) pigments instead of hybrid or organic ones for mature skin. These inorganic pigments offer better stability and retention in older skin. The end results tend to look softer and matte, making them a good choice for less experienced artists with mature clients. In terms of color index codes, these pigments usually fall between CI 77,000 and CI 77,999.
It's important to note that even though increased vascularity in mature skin can improve color retention, a considerable amount of the inorganic pigment applied will peel off post-procedure. This is a characteristic of inorganic pigments, regardless of the skin type they're applied to.
Color Selection - Go 1 to 2 Tones Lighter
For color selection, artists often agree on using the Fitzpatrick scale. They typically find the exact skin match for a younger client and then opt for a one to two-tone lighter pigment for mature skin. Specifically, if the client is over 60 and has high skin vascularity, artists recommend choosing a pigment that's two tones lighter than what would be used for that client if they were 30-40 years younger.
Pigment Mixture - Green Undertones and Olive Modifier
Experienced artists frequently recommend pigments with green undertones for older skin. The only exception would be if the skin's undertone clearly doesn't align with green, which is rare. Adding a drop of olive modifier to the pigment mix is also suggested when performing Powder Brows on mature skin.
Suggestions for the Procedure
Different Drawing Strategy
Avoiding overly thick shapes is essential for drawing the brow outline on older clients. Specifically, the lower line should often be slightly more curved than younger clients. The artist should avoid bold or "Instagram-style" brows despite the client's request. For older customers, a natural shape is always the best choice.
Endpoint Height is Key
When aiming to lift the client's gaze, elevating the endpoint of the brow (point number 3) can be an intelligent strategy. For younger or middle-aged clients, the rule is that this endpoint should be vertically between the beginning points of the upper and lower arch. However, for older clients, the endpoint can align vertically with the starting point of the upper arch.
Full Confirmation of Shape is Essential
To prevent any future disagreements, the artist should ask the client to scrutinize the brow shape from all angles before proceeding to the pigmentation stage. Contrary to what some novice artists may think, older clients do care deeply about the shape and details. Failing to achieve a natural look, especially if the brows are too thick or dark, can harm the artist's reputation. The client should examine the brow shape in front of a mirror from every viewpoint. Providing a hand mirror can also be helpful, allowing the client to assess the shape from various directions.
Use Makeup to Fill in the Outline if Necessary
To minimize any issues, one helpful technique is to fill in the outline with regular makeup. This gives the client a clearer idea of how their brows will look post-procedure. Experienced artists often use this method, particularly when the transformation from the client's natural brows will be significant.
Powdering vs. Hairstroke Pattern and Combo Brows
While some artists specializing in hairstroke patterns insist that this technique is age-appropriate for all, there's no wide agreement. Most artists interviewed recommended powdering as the primary technique for clients aged 60 and above. The same holds true for microblading. Though it can be done for clients over 60 in some instances, powdering generally produces better results. Just so you know, for clients aged 50 and up, it's common to combine microblading with Powder Brows, resulting in the Combo Brows procedure.
Vascularity and Retention - Use Fewer Layers
During the procedure, it's important to remember that older skin is thinner. A somewhat surprising benefit of this is nearly flawless color retention. In highly vascular skin, for example, almost 85-95%, and sometimes even close to 100%, of the pigment can be retained. Consequently, the number of pigment layers applied during the procedure should be substantially reduced, sometimes even halved.
Very Thin Skin - Use the Brushing Technique
Compared to standard skin types, the approach to pigmentation needs to be different for mature skin. Artists should use a light "brushing" technique, which basically means gliding gently over the skin with the pigmenting machine's needle. This is often described by experienced artists as "brushing off the dust from the skin." This minimizes damage to the thin skin layers and reduces the risk of over-traumatizing the area.
Effects of Gravity - Request Frequent Sit-Ups During the Procedure
Both during the initial drawing and the procedure itself, the impact of gravity on older skin must be considered. To counteract this, ask the client to sit up and look straight ahead with open eyes. The goal is to achieve the most natural look possible. Often, natural asymmetries need to be corrected during the mapping process. Professional artists rely more on visual cues than on measurements when the client is lying down.
Final Phase While Sitting
Some experienced artists make the finishing touches to Powder Brows on mature skin while the client sits. Though this may not be advisable for less experienced artists due to reduced hand support, the benefit is that less pressure is needed for mature skin.
Longer Healing Time Required
A longer time between the initial treatment and the touch-up is recommended for mature skin. For clients over 50, no less than eight weeks should pass before a retouch, and for those over 60, many artists recommend waiting ten weeks. This extended healing time is due to older clients' slower new skin cell formation rate.
Aftercare for Mature Skin
The basic aftercare for mature skin isn't much different from that of younger skin, but there are specific factors to consider.
Firstly, mature skin tends to be drier. Because of this, it's essential to gently rinse the eyebrows several times a day during the first 24-48 hours after the procedure. A slightly damp cotton pad usually works well for this.
It's also crucial to educate elderly clients about the importance of not touching their eyebrows during the healing phase. This includes avoiding scratching or trying to remove any scabs from the brow area. The success of the pigmentation greatly depends on following these guidelines, so ensure the client understands this.
Makeup and Substances
Many older clients are accustomed to applying daily makeup. It's essential to inform them that they should avoid applying any makeup or substances to the brows during the healing phase until the retouching appointment. Importantly, creams containing retinol should also be avoided near the brow area.
Retouch Can't Be Skipped
Even though the retouch might be scheduled later than usual, it should not be skipped after ten weeks. This is true even if the client feels that "the brows are okay." The retouch is necessary for corrections and long-term retention of the pigment.
Conclusions
As skin ages, it undergoes changes like becoming thinner and drier, losing its structure, and slowing down cell regeneration. These factors all influence how Powder Brows are done on mature skin.
For pigment choice, use inorganic pigments instead of organic or hybrid types. Also, pick a color that's 1-2 tones lighter than what you'd use for younger skin. Many experienced artists favor pigments with green undertones and may add an olive modifier if it complements the client's base skin tone.
In the drawing phase, lift the endpoint of the brow, but keep the brow shape naturally and not too thick. Many artists even use makeup to fill in the outline, giving the client a clearer idea of the final look.
During the procedure, use fewer layers of pigment than you would for younger skin. The application technique should be gentle, akin to "brushing," to minimize skin trauma. Retention in mature, vascular skin is often excellent.
Be aware of the "effects of gravity." Ask the client to sit up several times during the procedure to get an accurate view of how the brows will look.
For aftercare, keep the brows adequately moist, especially in the first 48 hours. A retouch shouldn't be skipped but can be scheduled later than usual—often after 10 weeks—to ensure the brows have fully healed.