How to do Powder Brows Procedure on Thick and Oily Skin (Expert artists advice)
Author: Holistic PMU Research Center, fact-checked and reviewed by an expert panel.
Contributor: Siiri Tabri
It’s not easy…
When performing the Powder Brows procedure on oily skin, every stage presents its own set of challenges and nuances. Awareness of these differences is crucial for achieving the best results, especially since working with oily skin is inherently more complex.
Background
This article synthesizes insights from 35 leading Permanent Makeup (PMU) artists, primarily from European Union countries and, notably, from Scandinavia. A few of the contributing artists are also based in the United States. What binds these experts together is their extensive experience - each boasting over five years in the specialized field of Powder Brows. Here, we deliver well-consensus advice on preparation, execution, and aftercare tailored specifically for clients with thick and oily skin types. This information is not just the result of individual perspectives but represents the collective wisdom of seasoned professionals in the field.
Stay tuned as we delve into the intricacies of the Powder Brows procedure, demystifying the best practices to ensure an exceptional outcome on thick and oily skin.
Understanding Oily Skin
Introduction to Skin Types
Before diving into the specific challenges and solutions for accomplishing Powder Brows on oily skin, it's crucial to understand different skin types. By putting oily skin into context with other skin types, we can better navigate the complexities of pigmentation procedures.
Ordinary Normal Skin
Normal skin manifests as pinkish, clear, and adequately hydrated. It has a balanced vascular structure and is nourished, with a smooth and elastic texture. Normal skin lacks issues such as shine, blackheads, or enlarged pores primarily because the sebaceous glands function effectively, regulating sebum secretion. This skin type is ideal for Powder Brows procedures as it neither irritates quickly nor requires excessive care. Moreover, it absorbs pigment efficiently and retains a significant amount after healing, offering vibrant and enduring results.
Dry Skin
Dry skin is characterized by its reduced sebum production compared to normal skin, which often leads to inadequate hydration. This skin type is prone to the early development of visible wrinkles and often appears dull, lacking the youthful glow associated with well-hydrated skin. It may also display signs of peeling and be prone to frequent irritation. While dry skin typically doesn't present with noticeably enlarged pores, it may show a delicate network of dilated blood vessels on the surface.
The absence of redness and plasma oozing generally facilitates the Powder Brows procedure on dry skin. Nevertheless, the skin absorbs pigments rather readily, eliminating the need for multiple layers. On the upside, dry skin tends to recover from any procedural redness swiftly. It's worth noting that although dry skin might take longer to heal, it often retains a significant amount of pigment, yielding favorable long-term results. It is crucial to inquire if the dryness is associated with a medical condition, as this may impact pigment retention and result in uneven color after the healing process is complete.
Characteristics of Oily Skin
Its heightened sebum production defines oily skin, setting it apart from regular and dry skin. It frequently exhibits a glossy or shiny facade, accompanied by blackheads and visibly enlarged pores. The skin is generally thicker and may have a greyish undertone. While it has the benefit of aging more slowly than dry skin, it remains more elastic for longer periods. When wrinkles eventually appear, they are often more profound and more prominent.
Comparing Oily Skin to Dry and Normal Skin
In contrast to dry skin, which is marked by insufficient sebum and a tendency toward premature aging, oily skin generates an abundance of sebum. This contributes to its unmistakable glossy appearance. Normal skin maintains a harmonious balance of sebum production, securing optimal hydration without excessive shine. The unique hurdle in executing Powder Brows procedures on oily skin comes from its natural inclination to resist pigment absorption. This is unlike the quick pigment acceptance commonly observed in both normal and dry skin.
Understanding the Dermatology of Oily Skin
The primary factor that gives oily skin its distinct characteristics is the overproduction of sebum. Sebum is an oily, waxy substance that naturally hydrates and protects the skin. However, sebum can clog pores in excessive quantities and become a breeding ground for other skin issues like blackheads and acne.
Geographical and Genetic Considerations
Interestingly, oily skin is more common among particular nationalities and specific geographical regions. People residing in tropical or humid climates often display oilier skin due to environmental elements such as elevated humidity levels. Genetics also plays a pivotal role in determining skin type; a family history of oily skin increases the chances of individuals within that family also having oily skin.
Managing Oily Skin
Although it's not possible to alter your genetic makeup and its influence on your skin type, you can still take measures to manage oily skin effectively. Routine cleansing, water-based moisturizers, and removing oil-based skincare products can contribute to better skin management. Some individuals seek medical interventions like topical retinoids or hormonal therapies to regulate sebum production more effectively.
Before the Procedure
Client Consultation and Expectation Management
One key factor emphasized by nearly all seasoned artists is the importance of educating the client about their skin condition, especially if it's oily. Veteran artists place significant value on discussing even the basics concerning the challenges of pigment retention in oily skin. The issue at hand isn't merely the increased difficulty of getting the pigment to stay in the skin; it's also about managing the gap—the "delta factor"—between the client's expectations and the realistic outcomes that can be achieved. As such, it's crucial to spend ample time with the client to clarify that multiple retouching sessions may be necessary, and even then, pigment retention might not be ideal.
Skin Hydration Patch Test
A number of artists rely on a specific hydration patch test to quantify skin moisture levels (measured in g/cm²). While a simple visual inspection and asking the client when they usually feel the need to blot their brow area can offer some insights, a numerical value can serve as a more concrete basis for discussion. Obtaining this measurement not only helps to clarify the skin's condition for the artist but also enhances the client's understanding of their own skin. Avoiding unwarranted optimism is essential in this scenario. As one seasoned artist aptly said, "To meet or exceed client expectations, an artist must assess the situation with oily skin as it is, and then a little worse than what it appears."
Pigment Selection for Oily Skin
Warm tones are generally a safe choice for oily skin. Many experienced artists prefer using organic pigments that closely align with the client's natural hair color, often adding a hint of yellow to the mix. It's important to manage client expectations by informing them that the pigment will likely appear much darker and more intense immediately following the procedure. The contrast between this initial appearance and the final healed result tends to be greater for oily skin than it is for normal or dry skin types.
Pixelation and Pigment Behavior
It's worth noting that achieving a perfect pixelated look is particularly challenging on oily skin, especially when evaluating the healed results. Regardless of the pigment's intensity or particle size, the outcome may fall short of ideal pixelation. Clients should also be prepared for the possibility that the pigment may adopt a cooler hue once settled in the skin and may fade more quickly compared to results on normal or dry skin types.
The Procedure for Oily Skin
Machine Speed and Hand Movement
Experienced artists agree on the importance of using a slower machine speed when working with oily skin. This also requires the artist to adjust their hand movement speed to match the machine. This slower pace may take some time, especially for artists accustomed to working more quickly. Therefore, constant self-reminders to slow down may be necessary.
Importance of Firm Hand Support
Skin stretching becomes essential for a smooth application when dealing with oily skin with an "orange peel" texture. Strong hand support is crucial to achieve this, particularly for the hand not holding the PMU machine. Many seasoned artists recommend finding stable hand support on the client's head and not hesitating to lean on it for better control. Informing the client beforehand is a courtesy, but this practice is essential for obtaining the best results.
Adapting Needle Movement
For effective pigment insertion, shorter hand movements are advisable. Most artists avoid the "pendulum" motion, opting instead for the "whip" movement. Caution should also be exercised to avoid penetrating the needle too deeply into the dermis. Even though many use high-stroke PMU machines, with a 3.0-3.5 stroke and corresponding needle cartridge, they refrain from deep penetration. Artists commonly refer to this technique as "floating" or "hovering" above the skin. It's crucial to understand that pigment intensity is influenced more by the number of pigment layers applied rather than the depth of needle penetration.
Maintaining a Dry Work Area
Oily skin responds more intensely during the procedure than normal skin. Artists have observed increased defensive reactions from the body, manifesting as bleeding, oozing, and redness. This skin type often secretes a mixture of blood, excess sebum, plasma, water, and proteins, making the work area moist. This moisture can mix with the pigment layer on the skin's surface, complicating the process. Therefore, it's essential to regularly dry the working area throughout the procedure.
Opting for a Shorter Procedure Duration
Given that oily skin is more prone to irritation, it's generally advisable to shorten the overall duration of the procedure. If you notice severe irritation or reddening of the skin, it may be best to plan for multiple retouch sessions rather than trying to complete everything in one go. The rationale is straightforward: pushing the procedure to its limits despite visible irritation is unlikely to yield satisfactory results.
Aftercare Guidelines with Oily Skin
Limited Use of Moisture
For oily skin types, it's essential to maintain a balanced moisture level during the aftercare phase. On the first day post-procedure, you may gently cleanse your eyebrows a few times using a slightly damp cotton pad. This helps remove any lingering oil and minimizes the risk of pore clogging, which is a common concern for oily skin.
Unlike dry or normal skin, avoid applying ointments immediately after the procedure. Let your eyebrows dry completely. This approach helps oily skin to better absorb the pigment, which is generally more difficult with this skin type.
Be Cautious with Water and Physical Contact
Avoid immersing your eyebrows in water or scratching any scabs that may form. Oily skin naturally resists pigment; excessive water exposure or physical contact can worsen this problem. This could result in weaker pigment saturation, uneven coloration, or even scar formation.
Formation of Protective Film
Approximately 3-5 days after the procedure, a thin film or delicate scabs should start to form on your eyebrows. This is a standard part of the healing process. Expect these scabs to begin peeling off around the 10th day post-procedure. Variations in color between the peeling scabs and emerging skin are normal and not a cause for concern.
Moisturizing Since Day 6
Starting on the 6th day and continuing until complete scab exfoliation, apply a thin layer of Bepanthen ointment once or twice a day for added moisture. Remember to cleanse and dry the area gently before each ointment application, given the challenges of pigment absorption in oily skin.
Evaluating Final Results and Planning Touch-Ups
Expect the full effects of the pigmentation to be visible approximately 6-8 weeks after the initial session. Due to the unique characteristics of oily skin, you may need a follow-up session or even two to achieve optimal pigment retention and overall results. A seasoned artist understands the importance of a tailored approach, as each case can vary significantly.
Prioritize Client Safety: "First, Do No Harm"
Addressing Sensitive and Oily Skin Types
Clients with both sensitive and oily skin require a specialized approach to the Powder Brows procedure. Sensitive skin tends to react more easily to various triggers—both internal, like emotional states or menstrual cycles, and external, like environmental factors. These reactions often manifest as redness, itching, or swelling. When you couple this sensitivity with the complexities of oily skin, the situation demands extra caution. In such scenarios, it's wise to consider shortening the initial session and potentially dividing the treatment into multiple, shorter appointments.
Risk Minimization Strategies
Shortening the session time helps minimize the risk of irritation or allergic reactions to both anesthesia and pigment. It also creates a better environment for pigment retention. Using a gentler technique, coupled with periodic breaks during the session, can alleviate sensitivity issues while ensuring effective pigment absorption. Tailoring the approach for clients with sensitive and oily skin types enhances their comfort and contributes to better long-term results.
Adhering to the Principle of "Primum Non Nocere"
The Latin phrase "Primum non nocere," which translates to "First, do no harm," serves as a cornerstone in medical ethics and is equally applicable to the Permanent Makeup (PMU) industry, including Powder Brows. This principle instructs professionals to place client well-being as their foremost priority. If a session shows signs of complications like skin irritation, allergic reactions, or excessive bleeding, the ethical response is to stop the procedure immediately. Continuing might be tempting, especially if the client is urging you to do so, but an experienced artist knows better. Opting for multiple, shorter sessions instead of a single, elongated one minimizes risks. Following this ethical guideline not only protects the client but also maintains the reputation and professional integrity of the PMU artist. Experienced artists often differentiate themselves through such caution, making adherence to "Primum non nocere" essential for conducting procedures that genuinely serve the client's best interests—even if it means rescheduling the session.
Conclusions
When working with clients who have oily skin, it's essential for the artist first to understand and communicate that achieving the desired results may be more challenging. The likelihood of getting "perfect pixels" is significantly reduced. Furthermore, the artist should set realistic client expectations, including the potential need for multiple touch-up sessions.
Slowing the machine's speed and moderating hand movements are essential during the procedure. The needle should not penetrate too deeply into the skin; the pigment's intensity is more influenced by the number of applied layers rather than needle depth. The recommended hand movements should be short and in a "whip" style, often described as "floating" or "hovering" above the client's skin.
If the skin exhibits an "orange peel" texture, it's crucial to smooth it out. The artist may need to find a suitable hand support position on the client's head, and informing the client about this necessity is essential.
Keeping the working area dry is paramount, given that oily skin produces more blood, lymph, and a mixture of plasma, water, and proteins. These elements can mix with the pigment, creating challenges. Therefore, the procedure's duration should ideally be shorter, as oily skin is more prone to irritation.
The aftercare regimen should prioritize limiting excessive moisture to maintain skin balance. Over-moisturizing could lead to a reduced pigment retention rate.
A holistic and Individualized Approach is vital. Lastly, artists should remain mindful of each client's unique properties. Oily skin may often be extra sensitive, requiring a more personalized approach. Always adhere to the guiding principle: "First, do no harm."