Pigment turning "blue," "red," or "gray" explained + solutions
“Pigment turning “blue,” “red,” or “gray” are excellent ways to understand pigmentology in the sense of physics, biology, and chemistry, respectively.”
There are tons of trainers and artists on the Internet pretending to be "pigmentology experts." All they often do is just beat around the bush, telling you that everything "depends," "pigmentology is so complicated," etc., not even being able to explain why we get unwanted colors, let alone how to avoid it. Why? Because they are not sure of themselves and are afraid to say something silly. We know those things on a professional level, and that is the reason hundreds of girls have ordered the PMU Bible.
Here's just a quick primer:
Pigment turning 'blue' is often a result of how lightwaves interact with carbon particles. The smaller the particles (i.e., around 90-10nm in 'channeled gas Black 6' ), the more likely a blue hue will appear.
Solution: Consider adding elemental Carbon or use carbothermally stabilized mineral iron oxide (often labeled: CI77266+77499). We've tried it, and no bluish in brows or eyeliner!
Pigment turning 'red' usually occurs when pure mineral Iron oxide interacts with the protein ferritin in your skin. This changes the iron's oxidation state and can make the Pigment appear reddish or rusty.
Solution: To avoid this, use molecularly silanized iron oxide. No red, no allergies, and a natural fade over time.
Pigment often turns 'gray' due to the lower photostability of red and yellow pigments compared to black. As time passes, the more stable black Pigment begins to dominate because the red and yellow pigments react more readily with photons, leading to a grayish look.
Solution: Opt for stabilized minerals or adjust the carbon content in your custom mix of mono-colors. Once again - problem solved!
Note: If migration is causing a grayish look, consider revisiting your technique or the quality of your pigments.
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