How to Avoid Bluish Powder Brows? (Expert Suggestions)
Author: Holistic PMU Research Center, fact-checked and reviewed by an expert panel.
Contributor: Siiri Tabri
Knowledge is power.
When it comes to understanding why pigment stays in the skin, fades over time, or sometimes turns bluish, many artists and trainers offer vague or oversimplified explanations. This article offers a comprehensive guide based on real-world experience from artists and insights verified by dermatologists.
“Instead of relying on assumptions or statements that may seem logical but are medically inaccurate, educating yourself on pigmentology is essential. This article aims to be a valuable resource on your journey to a more informed perspective.”
Background
Regarding Powder Brows, one of the most common issues new artists report is brows turning bluish or grayish. This article is based on interviews with 38 experienced Powder Brows artists and two dermatologists. We've compiled advice on topics with strong agreement among the artists. This ensures that the advice is backed by empirical evidence and proven effectiveness in the field.
What Causes Brows to Turn Blue?
To grasp why brows turn blue, it's essential first to understand the skin's structure and how pigment is retained within it. This is where pigmentology and dermatology intersect. The issue of "blue brows" isn't usually due to just one factor; it often involves multiple interconnected errors. However, by identifying and avoiding these errors one at a time, a new artist can significantly reduce the likelihood of encountering this problem.
Misconceptions About Pigmentation Depth
Basic knowledge tells us that the skin comprises three layers: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. However, the understanding of many artists and even trainers can be pretty shallow regarding pigment placement. They often provide unclear explanations, using vague terms like inserting pigment into a "deeper layer" or "superficial layer." Some trainers even claim to insert the pigment into the "basal membrane," essentially between the epidermis and dermis. Moreover, many students and trainers give confusing descriptions, saying they perform the pigmentation differently from tattooing because it's in a different "layer" of skin, making it gentler and not permanent. Such statements are usually vague and misleading because the people making them lack a thorough understanding of what occurs during the Powder Brows pigmentation process.
Understanding pigment positing in skin layers
The Reality - Basal Membrane Thickness: 0.00004-0.0001 mm
Any knowledgeable dermatologist would find these claims surprising. One overlooked detail by those who say they can target the basal membrane is its skinny size—ranging from 0.00004 to 0.0001 mm. Placing pigment "precisely into the basal membrane" exceeds the capabilities of humans and the most advanced AI-operated surgical devices available today, regardless of cost.
The Epidermis: An Unlikely Target at 0.1 mm
Simple fact-checking shows that targeting the basal membrane is anatomically impossible. So, let's move on to another possibility: not penetrating the basal membrane at all and only targeting the epidermis. The epidermis is roughly as thick as a sheet of paper, about 0.1 mm. It is possible to place the pigment into the epidermis alone gently. When this is done, the pigment disappears as the epidermis regenerates. This can happen in as little as four weeks—28 days for younger clients. For older clients, it could take up to 40 days or more. However, this method doesn't help us understand why brows turn blue, as a pigment in the epidermis will also naturally shed over time.
Practical result: Targeting the Dermis: Papillary and Reticular Layers
In truth, the situation is more straightforward than it seems. The distinctive sound of the needle often suggests that it has penetrated the basal membrane and entered the dermis, the second major layer of the skin. So, when we consider the "bigger picture," the pigment in Powder Brows is deposited into the same layer as tattoo inks the dermis. However, the targeted depth varies slightly. For softer Powder Brows (also known as soft brows or soft ombre brows), the aim is to deposit the pigment more into the papillary dermis. This layer makes up about one-third of the dermis in the eyebrow area and is roughly 0.3 mm thick. The remainder of the dermis, which can be up to 3 mm thick, comprises the reticular dermis. Let's examine the characteristics of these layers in greater detail.
Pigmentation to Dermis
Papillary Dermis
The papillary dermis is the topmost dermis layer, lying just below the epidermis. Rich in capillaries and fine elastic fibers, this layer is crucial in providing nutrients to the skin's outer layers. Its structure is looser and more flexible, allowing for a smooth connection with the epidermis. The papillary dermis is generally thinner than the reticular dermis, usually ranging from 0.1 to 0.3 mm in the eyebrow area.
Reticular Dermis
Located beneath the papillary dermis, the reticular dermis is a deeper and thicker layer. It mainly consists of dense, irregular connective tissue, which includes larger blood vessels, nerves, and collagen fibers. This layer grants the skin its strength and elasticity but has a thicker, fibrous texture. This makes it less suitable for detailed procedures like Powder Brows. Generally, the reticular dermis is much thicker than the papillary dermis, ranging from about 1 to 3 millimeters in the eyebrow area.
The Objective vs. Reality
Many artists who've delved into the technicalities aim for the "upper layer" of the dermis, essentially targeting the papillary dermis. With the right skills, depositing most pigment molecules into this layer is theoretically possible. However, since the boundaries between the layers aren't sharply defined, and individual skin characteristics can vary, some pigment will likely end up in the reticular dermis. Therefore, in terms of depth, there's little practical difference between Powder Brows and tattooing. The distinction lies more in the artist's intent than in the actual outcome.
Practical Suggestion - Opt for Fewer Layers
So, what's the takeaway? Especially for a beginner, it's pretty challenging to control the needle's exact depth. Given that the thickness of the papillary and reticular dermis varies from person to person, a sensible approach might be to aim for fewer layers. This will help control the amount of pigment deposited into the skin.
How do pigments remain in the skin?
Why Does Pigment Stay in the Skin?
Many artists and trainers offer various explanations for this, some stranger than others. They talk about pigment molecules "sticking" to something in the skin or "sinking" to the bottom of the dermis. The reality is more straightforward, and it mainly depends on the size of the pigment particles.
Pigmentation Equals Trauma
First, let's establish that inserting a metal needle into the body, regardless of the intent or the client's mindset, triggers a bodily response. Essentially, it's a wound. Considering that the needle can penetrate the skin from 50 to thousands of times per minute, we're talking about multiple wounds.
When the wound is created, some pigment molecules enter the skin on the tip of the needle, but most are "pulled" into the hole as the needle exits. The deeper the needle goes into the dermis, particularly the reticular dermis, the higher the chance of damaging tiny blood vessels and hitting nerves. This leads to more immediate pain and trauma.
Practical Suggestion - use booster balm
Many artists recommend using booster balms to better prepare the skin for the procedure and make it more effective. These balms moisturize and soften the skin, making it more receptive to pigment. By keeping the skin hydrated, they create a better canvas for pigmentation. This makes it easier for the artist to work and also minimizes friction. Lower friction helps pigment molecules distribute evenly in the skin. So, using booster balms improves both the quality of pigmentation and reduces the risk of skin trauma, leading to better results and happier clients.
Body’s Reaction to Pigmentation
Phagocytosis in Action
When pigment is deposited into the dermal layer of the skin, the body identifies these particles as foreign. This triggers an inflammatory response and sends specific cells to the site. Neutrophils, a type of white blood cell, are usually the first to arrive. They start the initial clean-up but aren't specialized in removing pigment. Next come the macrophages, which are the real MVPs of phagocytosis.
Macrophages specialize in "eating" foreign substances. They engulf pigment particles and isolate them from surrounding tissue. These cells either stay in the area, making the pigment appear permanent, or move to lymph nodes, causing some pigment to fade over time.
”Too large to engulf.”
Therefore, the larger pigment particles that the macrophages can not move to lymph nodes they wrap themselves around them and “stay on-site.” Let us zoom into this situation more closely.
Larger pigment particles present a different challenge. These particles are too large for the macrophages to move effectively. When a macrophage encounters such a particle, it still attempts to engulf it virtually, “hugging” the particle with its cellular membrane. Unable to move the large pigment molecule to the lymph nodes, the macrophage becomes somewhat of a stationary guard, holding the pigment in place within the skin.
Over time, these macrophages, laden with large pigment particles, eventually end their life cycle and die off. As they decay, they release the pigment particles they were holding. At this point, new “younger” macrophages come in to attempt the task of pigment removal all over again. These fresh macrophages will engulf the now free-floating pigment particles, both large and small. While they can successfully remove some smaller particles by taking them to the lymph nodes, the larger ones remain challenging, and the cycle repeats.
This ongoing interaction between the macrophages and pigment particles is a critical factor contributing to the longevity of the Powder Brow’s appearance. The larger pigment molecules that are perpetually 'captured and released' by generations of macrophages remain in the skin for extended periods, thereby maintaining the brow's color for a long time. Understanding this interplay is crucial for any artist in the field, and your insight appears to align closely with how these cellular processes work in practice.
The capsulation process
Next, let us look at this relation to the capsulation process. Some of the pigment particles are too large for the macrophages to engulf, and often, those pigment molecules also stick to each other. In other words, encapsulation is the assembly of pigment molecules into larger clusters and the stabilization of the pigment in the dermis.
More precisely, these particles become encapsulated in a fibrous tissue capsule, a process known as fibrosis. This helps isolate these larger particles and is one reason why the pigment stays in the skin for an extended period.
While all this microscopic activity is going on, the client will notice the immediate color, which will undergo changes during the healing process. Inflammation will reduce, and the final color will become more apparent, which is partly due to the macrophages' activity and the encapsulation process. Over time, natural skin exfoliation and the slow breakdown of these cellular capsules can cause the pigmentation to fade, requiring touch-ups.
Practical Suggestion: Use Inorganic Pigments and Work at a 90-degree Angle
For those who are new to the field, using inorganic pigments is a good starting point. These pigments have larger molecules, which can be trickier to deposit. However, the larger size reduces the chance of the pigment migrating or sinking too deeply into the reticular dermis.
Another important tip is to hold the handpiece at a 90-degree angle during the entire Powder Brows procedure, especially when doing Soft Powder Brows. Holding the handpiece at any other angle increases the risk of tissue damage. This can lead to deeper cuts and the pigment being deposited too low in the reticular dermis. For a beginner artist, maintaining a 90-degree angle is a safer approach.
Pigment’s visibility and Disappearance
Visibility of Pigment Over Time
For the Powder Brows effect, both encapsulation and phagocytosis play roles. In terms of the color you see, it's mainly from the encapsulated pigment. Macrophages, on the other hand, may cause some fading as they remove unencapsulated pigment. However, encapsulated pigment tends to stay put, giving Powder Brows their long-lasting look.
Lightfastness: Understanding "Blue" and "Grayish" Tones
When pigment is encapsulated deeper in the reticular dermis, it looks more relaxed—often appearing grayish or even bluish. A simple rule to remember is that the deeper the pigment, the cooler it looks.
Another factor contributing to the "blue" appearance is lightfastness. This is related to the fading of warmer colors, like yellow, in the already-placed pigment. Lightfastness refers to how stable a pigment is when exposed to light. It's how well the color resists fading when subjected to natural or artificial light. Understanding lightfastness is crucial for achieving Powder Brows that stay true to their original tone over time.
Reaction of Different Particles
Pigments consist of diverse particles that respond differently to light. For instance, warm tones like yellow are usually more prone to light-induced fading than stable colors like black or white. Yellow and similar colors have lower lightfastness, meaning they break down faster when exposed to light. This is a big reason why brows can start to look grayish or bluish as these lighter tones fade, leaving behind the darker, more stable colors.
Practical Suggestion: Avoid Cheap Pigments
The problem of brows turning bluish or grayish is more common when using low-quality pigments. These cheaper pigments often have inconsistent lightfastness properties. For example, their yellow and warm tones might fade more quickly. When these unstable colors fade, the brows can shift to an undesirable bluish or grayish hue.
The takeaway here is to opt for high-quality pigments with better lightfastness, especially for naturally less stable colors. This ensures longer-lasting and true-to-color results for Powder Brows, making it an essential choice for artists, whether they're newcomers or seasoned professionals.
Add Orange or Yellow Modifier
Modifiers can be useful and can be added to inorganic and organic pigments. However, determining the right amount of modifier to add to a specific pigment is not straightforward. Many experienced artists suggest that you get to know how a pigment behaves in the skin—and the likelihood of the brows turning 'blue'—by consistently using the same pigment for at least 6 to 12 months.
Many artists point out that only a few brands are so reliable that the pigment's label accurately reflects what's inside the bottle. This is because labeling requirements can be vague or inadequate. The label often doesn't provide enough information to determine the actual lightfastness of the pigment particles, so testing becomes necessary. While higher-priced pigments generally pose fewer risks, adding a modifier like yellow or orange can be beneficial.
Moreover, many artists recommend sticking to adding a yellow or orange modifier instead of mixing many different pigments. Mixing too many pigments can make it difficult to assess the lightfastness of the resulting blend. Mixing two pigments is usually enough; three or more is considered excessive. Remember that pigments often consist of three basic colors—red, yellow, and black. Pigments from the same manufacturer and product line usually differ mainly in the ratio of these colors.
Conclusions
Regarding pigment particles, they are inserted into the dermis layer during the Powder Brows procedure and remain there due to capsulation and phagocytosis.
To minimize the risks of pigments looking greenish and “bluish” on the skin, the starting artist should consider the following suggestions based on the advice from the seasoned artist.
Choose inorganic pigments at first. The larger molecule size makes them harder to deposit, but it also reduces the risk of migration and particles sinking too deeply into the reticular dermis.
Steer clear of cheap pigments. The issue isn't just consistency; it's also the lightfastness of the various components. Inexpensive pigments often have lower lightfastness in yellow and warm tones than black and white, leading to grayish or bluish healing.
Stick to a 90-degree angle. Using any other needle angle increases the risk of damaging the skin, leading to the pigment encapsulating too profoundly.
Opt for fewer layers. Many novice artists dream of limiting their pigment to the papillary dermis, thereby distinguishing it from tattooing. However, they still usually end up depositing pigment into the reticular dermis. The only aspect you can really control as a new artist is the number of layers you apply.
Add a touch of an orange modifier. In most cases, adding a drop of orange modifier to the pigment is beneficial. If you're using an inorganic base, consider a more yellowish modifier.
Limit the number of pigments mixed. Using one correct pigment or a mix of two high-quality ones is usually sufficient when mixing pigments.
Minimize skin damage with a booster. Use the right boosters to soften and moisturize the skin. Remember to insert some pigment with a needle but primarily create a vacuum. The less friction, the more pigment molecules are drawn into the skin with minimal trauma.