Powder Brows Healing Phases and Restrictions (Expert-Reviewed Advice)
Author: Holistic PMU Research Center, fact-checked and reviewed by an expert panel.
Contributor: Siiri Tabri
The “No-no”-s
Want to know the secret to perfect Powder Brows? It's all about understanding the three crucial healing phases and the dos and don'ts that come with them. This article will delve into an entertaining poem that touches on these guidelines and explores the science-backed dermatological reasons behind each phase and its restrictions.
“If you’re ever unsure about what to do during the healing process, it’s always best to err on the side of caution. Don’t underestimate the power of good hygiene, and remember, “First, do no harm.””
Background and “The Poem”
A while back, an artist collaborated with artificial intelligence to craft a poem that laid out aftercare instructions for the Soft Powder Brows procedure. This article scrutinizes how closely these poetic guidelines align with real-world practices. We've interviewed 32 experienced pigmentation artists with over four years of hands-on experience performing both Powder Brows and Soft Powder Brows. To enhance the credibility of our findings, we also consulted two dermatologists. These medical experts helped us fact-check the claims, ensuring that the advice offered was medically sound. Drawing from these interviews, we delve deeper into the healing processes involved in Powder Brows to offer a more comprehensive understanding.
First is the funny and witty poem the artist sent and the AI composed.
In fourteen days, let's make it clear,
What not to do? Please lend an ear.
Skip the treadmill, avoid the heat,
You want those brows to look elite.
Sleeping on your brows? Oh, Please halt!
Or wake up to find it's all your fault!
Ointments and creams? No way, my dear!
We stick to "dry care" around here!
After your procedure, keep tint and makeup far away,
Give it two weeks, then you can play.
No soaking in your tub or steam,
To keep those brows an artist's dream.
Exercise hard? Let's take it slow,
Sun's shining bright? Stay in the shadow!
Micelles water? Please abstain,
Or else your perfect brows will wane.
Retinol and antibiotics, please resist,
They're not the ones to help your brows exist.
Keep fingers off - don't scratch or touch,
If you want those brows to impress so much.
Makeup on your brows? Oh, please pause!
You don't want to ruin the artist's applause.
Forget the facial, peel, or laser blast,
And Botox, too, let that all pass!
Your own creams? A risky choice!
Stick with our product, and make your brows rejoice.
Swimming pools and spas - not great,
If perfect brows you wish to rate.
Direct sunlight, stay away,
And solariums? Not today!
For fourteen days, these rules don't bend,
To ensure your brows are a perfect blend.
That poem is based on advice that is part of the full list of aftercare instructions. Let us, next analyze to which extent that applies.
Understanding the Healing Process
The Stages or "Phases" of Healing
Artists largely agree that the healing process can be divided into three main stages, with the first stage containing a particularly critical initial part. While different Powder Brows artists may use various names to describe these phases, the fundamental concept remains consistent. For instance, one artist labeled the stages as Oozing, Itching and Peeling, and Aftercare. Others have used more conventional terms, such as Cleansing, Regeneration, Restructuring, and Scarring.
It's essential to note that these phases are not isolated events but are part of a continuous process. In other words, the transition between each phase is not sharply delineated. The gradual skin changes make the boundaries between these stages less distinct. Therefore, while it may be helpful to understand these phases as separate entities, it's equally important to recognize that they are interconnected and fluid.
First phase: “Oozing” or “Cleansing,” length: 0-5 days
The natural response of the body
The Cleansing Phase is the initial stage of healing, and it typically spans up to 5 days post-procedure. During this period, it's normal for a serous fluid to form on the freshly treated area. This is your body's natural response to the "wound" created during the Powder Brows application. This fluid helps to cleanse the area and initiate the healing process. At this stage, the skin around the brows often appears swollen and reddish, and you may notice that the area feels warmer to the touch than other parts of your face. These are typical signs that your body is focused on repairing the treated region. Some clients might feel mildly debilitated or fatigued, which is also a normal part of the body's response to the procedure. However, our empirical experience indicates that there are very few cases where there was actual fatigue, and that may generally be more probably in the case of really light body weight or if the person simultaneously has changed her diet.
The beginning of the Cleansing phase - 0-19 hours
Many artists have noted that one crucial point to note is the first 30 minutes to 19 hours immediately following the treatment. This window of time is critical for skin repair and can significantly influence the success of pigment retention. It's when the most intensive cellular repair processes are activated in the client's skin, laying the foundation for how well your Powder Brows will heal and retain their color.
The beginning of the cleansing phase is the one that has the most individual circumstances related to this, as people may react very differently to it. That also concerns the moisture level of the skin. The consensus is that being very careful during this phase pays off.
Darker Pigment Color During the Cleansing Phase
The pigment often appears significantly darker right after the procedure and throughout the Cleansing phase. Depending on the specific pigment and skin tone, it can look 25% to 40% darker. Several dermatological and physical factors contribute to this appearance.
Firstly, the volume of pigment particles is at its highest just after the procedure. Coupled with this is the phenomenon known as Epidermal Trauma. During the procedure, the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis, experiences some level of trauma. This can lead to a temporary thickening of the skin and a change in its light-reflective properties, making the pigment look darker.
Secondly, the issue can be associated with pigment pooling. When the pigment is initially inserted into the dermal layer of the skin, it resides closer to the surface. This high concentration of pigment particles in a confined area can give the appearance of a darker color. As time passes, the body's natural mechanisms for pigment dispersion and settling help distribute the pigment more uniformly.
One of the most impactful processes affecting pigment color is oxidation. Upon exposure to air, many pigments undergo oxidation, temporarily darkening the color. This resembles how a sliced apple turns brown when exposed to air.
Additional factors also contribute to the brows appearing darker. For instance, the body's inflammatory response triggers vasodilation and increases blood flow to the treated area. Furthermore, wound healing often increases moisture content in the treated area. Both water and serous fluids can alter how light interacts with the pigment, making it appear darker. However, the effects of these factors usually dissipate more quickly than the duration of the first phase.
Second phase: “Itching and Peeling” or “Regeneration”, length: 6-14 days
After the initial Cleansing Phase, the second stage in the Powder Brows healing process is the Regeneration Phase or the “Itching phase,” which typically spans from day 6 to day 14 post-procedure. This stage is marked primarily by granulation, or the development of new tissue, and involves an array of biological processes to repair and restructure the skin. In that phase, the clients often experience the harshest “roller-coster” feelings related to the procedure.
“Itching” as the name suggests
One of the most noticeable symptoms during this period is itching around the area where the makeup was applied. This is a normal and usually a positive sign that the skin's natural healing mechanisms are in full swing. At this stage, the scabs that had formed during the initial days begin to detach from the skin naturally. Clients should not interfere with this process by picking at or scratching the scabs, as doing so can affect the integrity of the newly forming tissue beneath.
“Peeling” part of the Regeneration phase
While the scabs are falling off, the pigment color may appear to be lighter or faded compared to the initial days post-procedure. This is largely because of the rapid and intensive production of collagen, which is a critical component of skin repair. Interestingly, this collagen is unevenly distributed and tends to form what could be described as a 'milky filter' over the pigment. This contributes to the lighter appearance of the brows at this stage but is usually temporary.
Sealing of the basal membrane
The "sealing" of the basal membrane is a pivotal event that typically occurs during the Regeneration Phase, generally between day 6 to day 14 after the procedure. As we have discussed, the basal membrane is a critical barrier between the epidermis (the outermost layer of skin) and the dermis (the deeper, second layer of skin). This membrane is also the birthplace of new skin cells, which are vital for the healing and regeneration of the treated area.
The basal membrane is temporarily "open" during the initial days post-procedure due to the micro-wounds created during the tattooing process. This openness allows for the pigment to settle into the skin. As the Regeneration Phase kicks in, the basal membrane starts its "sealing" process, essentially closing off the lower layers of the epidermis from the outside environment. New skin cells that are generated at the basal membrane move upwards to cover the wounded area, ensuring that the skin is protected and that the risk of infection or complications is minimized.
Simultaneously, as the basal membrane seals itself, the pigment particles are encapsulated within the new cells and layers of skin. This is a critical step for the longevity of the Powder Brows look. The pigment becomes "trapped" in the layers of the skin, ensuring that it does not fade away quickly or get dispersed. The sealing of the basal membrane acts like a lock, capturing the pigment securely within the newly regenerated skin cells. This process helps retain the vibrant color and sharpness of the brows for an extended period.
As we shall see, it is very important that clients rigorously follow aftercare guidelines to support the basal membrane in its sealing process. Failure to do so can interfere with both the membrane's closure and the pigment's ability to remain encapsulated in the skin, which could lead to a less-than-optimal final result. This intricate dance between the basal membrane and pigment particles showcases the body's natural capabilities and the scientific precision behind Powder Brows, leading to beautiful and long-lasting results when done correctly.
The Phenomenon of "Brows Falling Off"
The peeling stage is closely tied to what some clients describe as "brows falling off." This happens due to the natural healing process, where scabs form and eventually fall off in an uneven manner. As a result, the brows can look exceptionally light towards the end of this phase, specifically around the beginning of the second week of healing or days 7 to 10.
The timing of the "peeling" peak during the Regeneration phase varies from person to person, but it is an inevitable part of the healing process. This period is notable because many clients tend to become anxious. If the artist hasn't adequately explained the healing process, clients may become anxious and grow disappointed and accusatory during this time.
Third phase: “Continued Aftercare” or “Re-structuring and scarring” 16-30 days
The third phase in the healing process of Powder Brows is known as the "Restructuring and Scarring Phase," spanning from day 16 post-procedure and potentially extending up to 30 days or even months. During this extended period, the skin undergoes a thorough remodeling process to reinforce the newly regenerated tissue and stabilize the implanted pigment.
During this stage, you'll notice that the color of your brows starts to re-emerge, appearing more vibrant and natural. This shift in hue is a good indicator that your skin is successfully retaining the pigment, effectively trapping it within the cellular matrix. At the same time, it's not uncommon to experience a slight dryness and mild exfoliation of the skin, although this tends to be much less severe than what occurs during the initial stages of healing. The skin may also feel a bit tighter as it continues to heal, further sealing in the pigment and ensuring its longevity.
If you've adhered to your aftercare regimen, the risk of hypertrophic scarring is minimal. The restructuring process aims to produce a healthy, fortified layer of skin over the treated area. Your practitioner will likely recommend a tailored skincare routine during this stage to help optimize the long-term look of your Powder Brows.
As the skin matures and gains stability during this phase, the collagen production levels out, providing a more uniform appearance to the treated area. This is the stage where the ultimate success of the treatment can be judged, offering a clearer snapshot of how well the pigment has been accepted by the skin and how natural the final result appears.
Framing the Science Against "The Poem"
When examining the poem presented in this article, its core message holds up well under scrutiny. There are numerous precautions that clients should adhere to during the initial phases of Cleansing and Regeneration. Given that each individual's skin can respond differently, it's always prudent to err on the side of caution. While all the factors outlined in the poem have an impact, their importance varies from person to person. Additionally, as our dermatologists pointed out, maintaining impeccable hygiene throughout the procedure is a fundamental principle that should not be overlooked.
Conclusion
In terms of skin healing after the Powder Brows pigmentation procedure, the process generally unfolds over three key phases: Cleansing, which spans from day 0 to day 5; Regeneration, which occurs from day 6 to day 14; and Re-structuring and Scarring, which starts on day 16 and continues until the skin has fully healed and scarred. The client has the most influence over the healing process during the first two phases.
With this in mind, we can outline specific guidelines on what clients should avoid during the initial 15 days, which correspond to the first two healing phases.
No soaking brows in water, sauna, steam rooms, baths, or hot showers.
No rubbing, picking, or scratching.
No sleeping on eyebrows.
No creams with retinol, antibiotics, or anti-wrinkle treatments.
No micelles, water, or brow tonics.
No cosmetics on brows—keep them bare.
No creams - only our product or a thin layer of Bepanthen. When it comes to Soft Powder Brows, you may be able to choose dry care.
No cosmetic treatments like facials, chemical peels, laser treatments, botox, or eyebrow tinting.
No swimming pools, water, or spas.
Avoid direct sunlight and solarium.
No hard workouts or sweating; avoid hot weather.
Following the dry care concept during the initial five days means not applying any lubricants. Before putting on any ointment, ensure your brows are washed and dried thoroughly. If a patch test indicates your skin is dry, only then should you apply moisture on the first day, following the artist's recommendations.
Remember, a seasoned Powder Brows artist abides by the "First, do no harm" principle when offering aftercare advice. Therefore, if a client is uncertain about the impact of certain activities on her healing brows, it's wiser to abstain from those activities. Maintaining pristine hygiene is crucial throughout the entire healing journey.